When Will The Good King Ride Again?

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The statue of Svatý Václav (in English, Saint Wenceslas) located at the top of the city square that is named for him- Václavské Náměstí

Today is a National Holiday – Czech Statehood Day and the Feast of Saint Wenceslas (Svatý Václav). Most businesses and stores are closed as well as government offices. Wenceslas is the Patron Saint of Bohemia, the Spiritual Protector of the Czech Lands. He was actually the Duke of Bohemia from 921 to 935, but he was elevated to Sainthood and posthumously declared King by the Catholic Church after his assassination in 935. Only 24, Wenceslas was murdered by his younger brother, aptly named, Boleslaus, the Cruel.

Although he lived only a short life, Wenceslas managed to gain a reputation as a heroic and virtuous leader, and he became revered not only in the Czech Republic but in England. He became symbolic of what a good and kind king can, and should be. If you are old enough, you may remember singing about him at Christmas time…. “Good King Wenceslas looked out on the Feast of Stephen. Where the snow lay roundabout, deep and crisp and even.”

An ancient legend, (not unlike that of King Arthur), says that in the country’s darkest hour, in order to save it from ruin, this equestrian statue will come to life and King Wenceslas will lead an army of knights who now sleep beneath Blaník, a mountain in Central Bohemia. Upon crossing the Charles Bridge in Prague, the king’s horse “will stumble and trip over a stone, revealing the legendary sword of Bruncvík. With this sword, King Wenceslas will slay all the enemies of the Czechs, bringing peace and prosperity to the land” (Wikipedia)

I don’t know about you, but I love a story like this. It’s a classic. The setting of wrong to right. The power to “fix things.” A power that at some point we all wished that we possessed to fix the things in life that are making us miserable, or a power to restore, if not good, at least some smattering of justice to the world. Ultimately, it’s about hope. All religions and myths exist to give us hope. Hope is what we need when we are having a “terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day.” And when I get tired from fighting my own battles, I would gladly give over to a mythic sized, sword wielding, very good king who rides in on horseback.

What about you dear Readers? Have you ever felt this way?

“Born Again” Takes On a New Meaning

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Dear Readers,

It’s been a long time since I checked in with you all. How are you? If you are like me, you probably have more to do than hours in the day. But, I’ve really missed my writing, and so I’m back.

One of things that kept me busy for a long time here in Prague was working on my Czech citizenship, and guess what? I am now a citizen of the Czech Republic, which also means I am now a citizen of the EU. ( I still have my US citizenship as well in case you’re wondering )

I also received a birth certificate, as every citizen must have one. It seems I was “born again” in the city of Brno where this legality officially takes place. This is what a Czech birth certificate looks like……

Now that I’m “official” I feel even more motivated to learn the very complicated Czech language. I studied it on my own, in an online class, and with a private tutor before I ever left the US. And, I took a several month long course here in Prague, but I’m still at an A1 level! There is a reason that only 10 million people in the world speak Czech- and they are the 10 million people who live here! I am reminded of advice given by Dave Barry who once said that “the best way to learn Japanese is to be born in Japan to Japanese parents.” Oh well, I am determined to at least reach an intermediate level….

Anyway, I continue to teach and happily live in my adopted country. I hope you all are well. Thanks for reading!

Meet Natasha

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Natasha and her two dogs, Jimmy and Mark, came to live with me on March 10th. They fled their home in Kharkiv, Ukraine about one week after the Russian invasion began on February 24th. Natasha speaks English fluently and is a freelance, 3-D animator who creates NFT’s. She has been able to do her work from my home as she settles into life here in Prague and begins the long process of finding a place of her own.

Mark recently celebrated his fourth birthday
Jimmy after his bath

Today is Orthodox Easter and so Natasha got up early this morning to dye eggs and make this beautiful Easter feast for us to enjoy.

Rental prices in Prague have greatly increased while the available options of rental properties has decreased in recent months. This was already the trend but the problem has been exacerbated by the influx of hundreds of thousands of Ukrainians into the city. So, for the time being, Natasha will continue to be my guest. Thank you to my good friends back in the States who have pledged money to help Natasha get reestablished here. It takes a village and that’s no lie.

Thanks to all of my readers and I will keep you posted on Natasha’s progress and events here.

War In Ukraine

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Dear Readers, it has been too long since my last update. The good news is that I have been extremely busy. The bad news is that there is a war on the European continent. It feels like it’s next door, but Ukraine is 700 miles away from Prague. The mood here is a combination of disbelief, anger, and horror. There have been numerous protests and an amazing rallying of support for the Ukrainian people- beginning with the Czech government issuing rapid visas, work permits, and offering free healthcare, to the Czech citizenry opening their homes, raising millions of dollars, and basically providing every possible resource you can imagine. Over 100,00 refugees have made it into Czechia so far and more are coming.

I too feel compelled to act. Although my flat is small, and I can only offer a sofa for a bed, I will be welcoming a young Ukrainian woman and her two chihuahuas into my home this evening! She is arriving by train after departing from a refugee camp in Lubaczow, Poland at 8:00 this morning. I don’t know much about her other than that her name is Natasha and she does freelance work as a 3D animator. She texts me that she brings only her dogs, a backpack and a bag. I don’t know anything about her family situation, but of course, there will be plenty of time to learn all of that. If she allows it, I will share her journey with you.

Until then- thanks for reading and as always, I love to hear from you.

VESELÉ VÁNOCE! MERRY CHRISTMAS!

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Incredible. Five months have passed since I moved to the Czech Republic. And now it is Christmas. A very beautiful time indeed here in this most ancient and mystical city. Every square is decorated with a tree and many buildings are draped in lights. Floral shops are filled with mistletoe and evergreens to trim your home with natural beauty. Here is just a sampling…..

Christmas trees aren’t the only thing in abundance now. In a city that patronizes the arts like few others, there is no lack of musical concerts to sample. I recently attended the Vánoční Cantata pro Unicef, the Christmas Cantata for Unicef at the Municipal House, a magnificent Art Nouveau architectural gem in the city center. The Prague Symphony Orchestra performed a symphony by Saint-Saens and then were joined in the second half by the Kuhn Choir of Prague, and the Radost Praha Children’s Choir. The all-enveloping sound of voices, pipe organ, and full orchestra was exhilarating in the perfect setting of Smetana Hall.

Art Nouveau gem Obecní Dům, Municipal House
Smetana Hall

Of course, as the saying goes, “there’s no place like home” and my favorite tree in Prague is the one right here in my neighborhood square, Karlínské Náměstí. So, dear readers, wherever your home is, I wish you a Christmas that is merry and bright.

My beautiful neighborhood tree in the forefront. Shining golden behind it, the Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius, and in the far distance the National Memorial on Vítkov Hill.

Friendsgiving With a Czech Twist

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As I write this, you, my North America readers, are just waking up on this Sunday, the last day of the Thanksgiving Holiday weekend. I hope you enjoyed a time of joy, relaxation, and good food. It is snowing today, for the first time here in the city, although snow has already fallen in the mountains. That damn Virus is consuming the news again as numbers in Europe climb high once more. We are not in a “lockdown” but the closing of the Christmas markets around the city has put a major dent in everyone’s Christmas spirit. Nonetheless, I enjoyed a wonderful Thanksgiving feast at The Globe. https://globebookstore.cz

The Globe’s exterior and me with my new Friendsgiving pals.

“Founded in 1993, the Globe Bookstore and Café is Prague’s first and best English language bookstore with a lively and trendy café…. The Globe Bookstore is expat Prague’s literary epicenter that provides a unique meeting place for artists, writers, students and travelers. ” 

from https://globebookstore.cz
When I arrived at noon on Thursday, I was the first guest. Soon after, another single woman, Kristýna arrived and I invited her to join me. Kristýna is a Czech native who sought out a “traditional Thanksgiving meal” in Prague after her English teacher taught her about the American holiday. How lucky for me that both The Globe and Kristýna were there!

While I was enjoying all of this delicious food, my good friend, and fellow teacher, Sybil, was back home in South Carolina with her family for Thanksgiving. She shared these beautiful photos with me of autumn in the countryside near her hometown. So like North Carolina, they really resonate with my heart.

Well, like the Dan Fogelberg song says, the snow here has turned to rain. Time to work on some lesson plans for next week and have a Czech lesson, or maybe just a lazy Sunday afternoon nap. Whatever you do this day, make it pleasurable.

Of Birthdays and Revolutions

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This sculpture plaque hangs a bit unobtrusively on Národní Třída (National Street). No words are necessary. The date says it all.
On the street below the same spot- the night of November 17th. Candles lit in memoriam of the Velvet Revolution.
I celebrated my first birthday here in the Czech Republic with a walk through Old Town and along the River. The building with the golden roof is The National Theatre. As I’ve said before, the views never get old.

My very special student, Lucie, treated me to a birthday cocktail and gourmet confections at IF cafe on Kampa Island. It is owned by the renowned pastry chef, Iveta Fabešová. That same evening, unbeknownst to us, the cafe was technically closed for a St. Martin’s Day Feast. Iveta generously invited Lucie and I to join in. She served me a huge plate of roast goose with dumplings and sauerkraut. It was delicious!

The Hedgehog in a Cage is a very popular puzzle here in the Czech Republic. Lucie gave me the one on the left to solve, and the pastry chef made me one of chocolate, on the right, to eat!
View of the city from Kampa Island, Prague.

26 Hours In Warsaw

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Business Skyline Warsaw

It’s hard to believe but one week ago I was in Warsaw. As I previously mentioned, I had no choice but to fly there for my long-term visa interview at the Czech Embassy. Much to my surprise and delight, the experience was a pleasurable one. The consular who interviewed me was friendly and engaging, sincerely wanting to help me secure my visa. He carefully crafted my responses to the standard questions as I spoke freely about my hopes and aspirations while living in the Czech Republic. When he made his final edits to the document, translated it back for me and I signed it, two hours had passed! So, now I wait. Again. When (and if) I am approved, I will have to fly back to Warsaw to pick up my visa in person at the Embassy.

Ghost Tour Update…..

Our talented tour guide dressed in a period costume Halloween night. The picture on the right shows the Old Jewish Cemetery where some 100,000 people are buried in a very cramped space. The wall you see behind the guide is not a cemetery built on a hill… bodies were buried 12 deep here, each one adding a layer and thus creating the hill. The cemetery began accepting tenants in the 1400’s and the last person was buried here in 1787. Sadly, we saw no ghosts that night!

It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Halloween

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At the Botanical Gardens
Enjoying the warm sunshine and a glass of wine at the vineyard in the Botanical Gardens

Last weekend I spent a day at the Botanical Gardens with my new friend, and fellow-teacher, Sybil. Coincidentally, Sybil is from South Carolina so we automatically have a lot in common! The weather has just been spectacular here in Prague for weeks, so I have taken every advantage of it by spending most of my free time in the outdoors. I have heeded the warnings of everyone that when November comes, it will be cloudy and cold most days. But this particular Sunday could not have been more perfect! See for yourself.

  • Sybil gets credit for this gorgeous tree shot

Tonight Sybil and I are going to do Halloween right- we are going on a ghost tour of Old Town including the old Jewish ghetto and cemetery. The cemetery dates back to the first half of the 15th century. Approximately 12,000 tombstones have been counted here, but about 100,000 people are buried here! I will share more about the old Jewish ghetto of Prague in a later post. I can’t think of a better place to see a ghost, can you?!

Happy Halloween from Prague

Autumn Comes to Karlín

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Outside my building on Křižiková Street
Flower shops abound in Prague and they entice you in with all of their colorful plants and arrangements. Here’s one I bought for my kitchen table

And now for an update on my long term Visa…. As I mentioned in my last post, the Czech government requires foreigners to interview for their Visa at a Czech Embassy outside of the country. Because there is a backlog of people applying for Visas post Covid restrictions, and because several Czech embassies in European cities have stopped doing this work altogether, it is difficult to get an appointment. My appointment is on November 4th in Warsaw, Poland, a “mere” 12 hour train ride. I am considering flying there. In any event, I’ll have to overnight the night before as my interview is at 10:00 a.m. If you’re thinking that these requirements are daunting, you are correct. They are designed to “thin the herd.”

Getting ready for Halloween